Today I decided to write about a subject that intrigues many brides and people interested in party dresses with handmade lace such as the renaissance lace. How to make it?! I understand this problem very well because I experienced the same anxiety at the beginning of my career.
The fact is that even highly experienced professionals in fashion design and haute couture may not have experience with renaissance lace (the best known of Brazilian craft lace). There are also professionals who have worked with craft lace, but did not like the experience very much, mainly due to the difficulties encountered in incorporating the use of this special lace in their production processes.
As I have explained in previous posts, handmade lace has peculiar characteristics that distinguish it from industrial lace embroidered on pieces of tulle or made of very light material. These industrial laces can be cut into the desired dress modeling format or can be applied over other light, almost transparent fabrics without weighing over the seam. Therefore, either you or your designer can go to a specialized store and buy meters of the preferred lace to freely create your dress.
With artisanal lace, this process hardly works. Although it is very common for the bride to buy a renaissance "towel", for example, and take the piece for her dressmaker to make the dress, this process is quite difficult, the modeling options become very restricted and the dress finishing is not as precise as the ones in models created with custom-made lace.
The reasons for this are, first of all, the fact that it is very difficult to cut the renaissance lace without tearing parts of the piece that will be used (without losing some of the valuable material). I, in particular, find it a sin to cut something that has been sewed so carefully, with thread and hand needle, for hours on end.
In addition, it is not possible to cut the "towel" in the exact format of the dress’s flats, since the cuts are made following the design of the lace (which is extremely irregular) and the garment flats should follow the linear and curved shape of the body. Thus, pieces cut with irregularities have to be folded and sewn into the internal lining, which causes a mismatch of the lace pattern between the sides of the dress and compromises the finishing. This limitation of the cut lace also ends up limiting the options of dress models.
Finally, because the lace cannot be cut in the exact format of the chosen model, important details of the dress, such as necklines, sleeves, and waist cuts, are left with the lace folded inward. Note that custom laces are especially rich in finishing details in these prominent places of dress: the renaissance lace neckline, for example, ending in designs lined up with bust and adorned with “popcorn” sewed dots that float over the skin.
Finally, the quality of the material, the richness of details and the perfection of the finishing are the main factors that define haute couture, especially for a wedding dress. And that, in my opinion, holds true for both traditional and modest models.
That is why I opted for it in my own wedding dress, and I kept opting professionally for custom-made lace pieces, designed specifically to suit my clients' dress designs. In this way, each piece of lace fits perfectly into the modeling and body, the lace designs have continuity and form a unique work of art from the feet to the neckline and the finishes of the stitching and the details on display are perfect. And I still have the freedom to create the most varied models and even to choose the design that will be sewn into the lace! I absolutely love this creative process! Even my adornments, frequently used as head pieces or as adornments on dresses, are tailor-made. I do not use the scissors on my lace! 😀
Was I convincing enough?! So come and make your lace dress specially crafted for your taste and for your body! I will love to meet you!